Finding decent tomato growing tips that are actually usable can be difficult. There’s lots of information available out there but it tends to be stuffed with technical jargon that can put the beginner off before they even start! Sure the ph of the soil and balance of nutrients is important, but let’s not get bogged down with all of that too soon. Here’s some simple, easy to follow advice to get you going.
Growing you own tomatoes is great fun and having spent weeks tenderly cultivating and caring for your plants you can enjoy eating those wonderful fruits of your labour. Until you’ve actually eaten one of your own home grown tomatoes you will not know just how tasteless store bought tomatoes really are! But let’s get a little realistic here. Although growing your own isn’t particularly difficult, you will need to follow a few simple but important rules if you are going to have a chance of growing anything that will end up being edible!
The first thing you need to decide is where you are going to grow your plants. Planting outside in natural sunlight, with fresh warm breezes and carefully mixed soil is probably the ideal place. But you should be aware that with an outside garden, pests and diseases have easy access to your cherished tomatoes. Proper care must also be taken when preparing the soil before you even think about planting anything. To get the soil right you need to mix some good quality manure in with it a couple of weeks before planting to get all the nutrients released into it. There are more things you can add to the soil that can help the growth of your plants but for now let’s keep it simple.
Growing tomatoes successfully requires access to adequate sunlight. Wherever you choose to plant your seedlings you need to make sure they receive at least 8 hours of sunlight everyday. Sunlight is absolutely essential for creating healthy plants that produce lots of juicy tomatoes. Your plants need the sun in order to photosynthesize. You don’t need to have an in depth explanation about this, but just know that this process simply helps the tomatoes have a stronger sweeter taste.
Spacing your tomato plants out correctly is very important. When you plant your seedlings they should be spaced at least 2 feet apart. It may seem like they are too far away from each other and might look a little lonely – but remember they will grow pretty fast and bush out quite a lot. Keeping them well spaced apart will give them each more access to sunlight and also help to reduce the spread of any diseases.
Staking your tomatoes is recommended to provide support to the tomato plant branches. If any of the branches are allowed to sag and hang onto the ground, any tomatoes touching the ground will soon start to rot. Staking should be done quite early on. If you begin to see any of the branches hanging down you should use a stake or a cage to help keep the plant sturdy. Many tomato plant diseases occur on wet leaves. By properly supporting your tomato plant you can make sure it gets correct exposure to the sun which in turn will help to keep its leaves dry.
These simple tomato growing tips should give you a basic idea of some of the things you will need to consider before you enter into the world of tomato gardening. Once you’ve gone through the full process of seed to seedling – to full grown tomato plant to harvesting your own fruits you will then understand what I takes to grow successfully. When you first start, keep it simple. And as you continue in your quest for “the perfect tomato”, (and if you get hooked like I did you will), you will discover all the little exciting tips and tricks along the way. It’s really quite simple – once you know how!
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Your tomato garden will require 1 to 2 inches of water every week. Closer to 2 inches for sandy well drained soil, and closer to 1 inch for clay soils which do not drain as well. If rainfall does not supply this amount you must supplement with sprinkling or soaker hoses. One or two deep soakings per week is more effective than many light sprinklings.
Should your garden soil be healthy and rich with organic matter, no additional fertilizer would be necessary at time of planting. However, to ensure sweet, succulent tomatoes, side-dress with 2 tablespoonfuls of 10-10-10 slow release granular fertilizer two weeks after transplanting. Again after the first yellow flowers, when the fruits reach the size of ping-pong balls, and after the first ripe tomato.Tomato Plant Stakes
While tomatoes in windy regions do better when kept close to the ground, most tomato plants do better if kept off the soil surface. When supported tomatoes receive more direct sunlight, allows for easier maintenance and harvesting, and saves space in the garden. Staking and pruning plants by removing “suckers” and foliage can result in an earlier harvest of higher quality fruit and can reduce some disease and pest problems such as blight, rotting and slug damage. In addition to these advantages staked plants produce larger fruit than a plant which is not pruned.
The most popular methods for supporting tomatoes are staking, caging and trellising. Most tomatoes that are supported are also pruned, but not all. Determinate tomato plants should not be pruned, but pruning goes hand in hand with staking large indeterminates. You should remove “suckers”- shoots that sprout where the leafy branches meet the main stem. This encourages the growth of the central stem and increases fruit production. It also helps to prevent disease by improving air circulation. When your plants grow large enough you may choose to cage them rather than stake them. There is less work involved with caging, but staking typically produces larger fruit. With caging you simply place a cage over/around the plant. The only thing you have to monitor is to make sure the branches are above their closest cage wire rather than under it. This ensures support for that branch when it does produce tomatoes.
Be sure that whatever support system you choose is sturdy enough to support the plants you’re growing, and get it set up when the plants are still young to avoid damaging their roots.
Tomato Plant Stakes
Now, wouldn’t it be nice to go and pick your own tomatoes in your living room for almost nothing? Seems obvious enough, and with the winter months ahead, the prices are only going to be going up. But how come I don’t hear about people growing vegetables during the winter inside? you may ask. Well, it’s just one of those things that people assume are left to the crazy-vegetable growing people that have giant greenhouses (which aren’t a bad investment, by the way). Vegetables for the average home take up almost 35% of our grocery bill (yikes!), and this has been something I’ve been doing since high school when my father turned me onto it (I’m a vegetarian, so any way to save on my veggies is a huge plus for me). Now, if you’re interested and know what you’d do with the tomatoes (this is important!!)– continue reading.
Some background; you know absolutely nothing at all about gardening; or, maybe you do. I’ll assume you know what dirt is. And seeds. So I would suggest that you go and buy seeds (or take them from tomatoes that you have purchased, let them dry, and then plant them… but I seem to have very little luck with these). I’d recommend going for cherry tomatoes (they seem to do best in terracotta pots from my experiences).
How to Choose Tomato Plants- Tomato Plant Stakes
Now I’m going to bust out some vocabulary you may or may not be familiar with. This is vital to understanding the world of tomato plants. When you’re choosing a tomato plant type, it is very important to keep in mind what you have space for. Taking the plants that claim to be “high yield” might at first seem to be optimal, but in this particular situation, probably not. Tomato plants can be either “determinate”, “indeterminate”, or “semi-indeterminate”; determinate are short and bushy (about three feet– don’t require support to stand), indeterminates tend to be tall (from five to eight feet tall), and semi-indeterminates tend to be in between (hence semi… duh [about three to five feet]). These growth patterns also have a lot to do with how they provide tomatoes. This is why you need to know what you plan on doing with your produce when it is ready for harvest. The determinates (the short guys) produce all of their tomatoes at once, while indeterminates (the tall guys) will continue producing until frost hits. The semi-s are, well, in between. (duh) You may think it’s best to get the biggest plant that you can; but remember, bigger isn’t always better. Any plants with thick, green leaves are going to be 10x better than plants that are bigger but have yellow wilting leaves near the soil.
Time to Plant- Tomato Plant Stakes
Does your house stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit? Then any time is the right time. Now, which room is the one that gets the most sunlight? In fact, which space in the room specifically gets the most sunlight? That’s where you want to place the pot. Otherwise, you may as well be wasting your time. Keep in mind, you may only want to try one plant before you decide to make your living room a greenhouse. Terracotta pots are my best recommendation; they are attractive, and contrary to popular belief, they are quite cheap. But really, you could use anything: a kitchen colander, paint pots, cooking pots, plastic and glass jars, vases, even topless soda cans! Just remember to wash out the pot completely before adding soil and the plant.
Tomato requirements- Tomato Plant Stakes
It seems that most people think if you plant a seed and water it, that’s good enough and it will grow. This isn’t too far from the truth, but the small difference decides whether you’re going to be having any tomato sandwiches for free soon. Tomatoes, like you and I, want to be happy. They enjoy lots of sun (as much as you can get them– honestly, there’s no such thing as too much sun for tomato plants), a little bit of water every day (if their soil is soaked an hour after you watered them, then cut back a little), soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 (okay, if you need that, you’re a little weird). Certain plants like to climb, certain like to lay around on the ground. This is where you need to go off on your own and do some research on the types you’re interested in first. Keep in mind that there are advantages and disadvantages, regardless of whether they need a stake or a cage.
Pros of stake/cage: Bigger tomatoes, less space, earlier harvest, cleaner vegetables.
Cons of stake/cage: More work, lower yield, increased risk of sun-scald/cracking/blossom end rot (you know, all the stuff that causes you not to buy them at the store).
The point is that because it is said that you should or shouldn’t use a cage, keep in mind your own interests. If you do decide to let them grow on the ground, keep in mind you do have to mulch once the tomatoes begin to show. This means that you need to be moving the plant around as well as the topsoil a little bit to keep the bottom of the tomatoes themselves from rotting.
I know you’re excited to get the vegetables off the plant, but please try to wait. The average tomato plant takes between 49 days (Fourth Of July plant) and 90 days (Garden Peach).
Some final facts for you:
An average tomato plant produces on average 35 pounds but up to 45 pounds of tomatoes.
Based on these stats, and if the cost stays around $3.00 a pound, we can assert that we are getting on average $105 worth of vegetables from one plant. The seeds might cost $1, the water used might even cost $1, the pot… maybe $5. Now only if I could get that percent return on all of my investments! Just one more way to save money the DIY way.
site:Tomato Plant Stakes
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Greenhouses operate on the principle that the temperatures from day to night are kept ideal for the plants to grow in no matter the weather outside. As a general rule, the greenhouse is made relatively cooler during the day and then comparatively hotter during the night.
- There are various means to achieve both of these temperature-related goals of which the most common and most effective is the use of a shade net.
- This is especially true for greenhouses located in hot and humid climates where the sun often beats down mercilessly on all earthly things.
The Greenhouse Shade Cloth Defined Gardening shade net
Basically, a shade cloth is any material that can be placed over the greenhouse’ roof and walls that, in turn, will block out the sun’s direct heat from entering the structure.
- The most common material is loosely-woven polyester with varying intensities from 5% to 95% depending on the shade levels required.
Greenhouse gardening experts recommend using a cloth with 40% to 60% density for most plants although exotic blooms like orchids require a minimum 75% density. The general rule is to go for the lowest density possible and then adjust as the plants grow.
Be sure to take the cloth or net off the greenhouse at night.
- If you fail to do so, the greenhouse will be cooler than necessary, which will produce a similar effect as when you failed to place the cloth on the greenhouse during hot days.
Importance of Greenhouse Shade Net Cloths Gardening shade net
From the above mentioned definition of a shade cloth for greenhouses, it is easy to conclude about its importance to the proper maintenance of the greenhouse.
• Since it blocks out the sun’s direct sunlight, the shade cloth lessens the energy costs necessary to keep the greenhouse cool during the mornings and then well into the early evenings. Most greenhouse owners will put up the cloth from 10AM and leave it on until 5PM, perhaps even later in places with extreme western exposure. This is particularly true during the hot summer months.
Conversely, the new shade also helps in heating up the greenhouse during the evenings. Just pull up the shade cloth to let the cool air into the structure.
• Also, it prevents irradiation damage to the plants. Many crops have been destroyed by excessive sun exposure, which counteracts the purpose of the greenhouse in the first place – to protect the plants from the whims of the weather outside including extreme levels of sunlight.
• The cloth also plays a significant role in keeping the greenhouse’s ventilation up to par. Keep in mind that proper ventilation is also of great importance to keeping the ideal temperature within the greenhouse. The trick is in using the shade cloths to aid in such purpose.
Gardening shade net site:princegardening.com
Tomato Plant Stakes When it comes time to plant your tomato seedlings there are a number of steps that should be followed to give them the best chance at survival. This is a critical time for your young plants and there are a number of things that you can do which will either hinder or harm them when it comes time to transplant.
The very first thing that must be considered is location. Where are you going to plant your seedlings? The location that you choose has to have plenty of sunlight throughout the whole season. At least 10 hours a day is good. Tomato Plant Stakes
Tomatoes like air circulation but young plants will dehydrate very quickly in a wind tunnel. Make sure that there is plenty of open air around them and if your area is constantly subject to very high winds that you have taken this into account.
Now let’s take a look at your seedlings… are they strong and stocky or long and leggy? Seedlings that have been grown with insufficient exposure to light or air movement are bound to be long and leggy and you will have problems if you aren’t careful. I will address this further on in the article.
Now let’s take a look at your soil. Hopefully you will have already taken a soil sample and had it analysed and you will know that your soil is nicely balanced for you new babies. If you haven’t done this then I strongly suggest that you do so. Tomato Plant Stakes Planting plants in bad soil is not something that you want to do.
Alright, so now we are ready to plant… leave the seedlings in their peat pots if that is what they are in. (Or gently tap them out if they are older plants you are transplanting from pots)
Plant the seedlings so that the highest branching is about 3 inches above the soil (roughly half of your plant should be below ground) we want the roots deep enough to stay in the soil but we don’t want it too far down in the cold.
Cover the plant around with soil and gently firm it down. If they are Indeterminate plants that will be growing tall then stake them (but don’t drive the stake through the root ball keep it about three inches away).
Water them in thoroughly with some tepid water, give them a good soaking initially. If you want to give them a boost then use some fish emulsion here.
I generally don’t believe in fertilizing freshly planted young plants, however if you have your heart set on it then make sure that you use a weak solution, half strength should be ok, keep the fertilizer at least 3 inches away from the stem of the plant so that you don’t burn it.
About a fortnight after place a good layer of mulch around your now healthy growing little plants. Roughly 3 inches should do it. This will aid in water retention in the soil and make it easier for you to maintain them. Tomato Plant Stakes
As you can see the act of planting (or transplanting) your tomato plants is really very simple it is really mostly the preparation steps that will mean the difference between having fantastic healthy crops and mediocre ones. Of course this is the way with gardening in general, most of the truly important work is in the preparation.
Now, as for trench planting those long and leggy seedlings. The art of growing seedlings correctly is a subject in itself and at this point in the game it is too late to do anything about them anyway. The best idea for long, leggy seedlings is to trench plant them.
The problem with long seedlings is that, if planted normally, the root ball will end up too deep in the ground. This can lead to a variety of problems and you simply don’t need to buy the trouble.
The procedure to rectify this is very simple, instead of plant directly down into the soil, dig a horizontal trench at a shallow angle. The idea is to keep the root ball about 3 inches down. Right where it would be if your plants were strong and stocky.
Pinch off any leaves along the stem that will be placed in the ground and lay the plant in. Gently cover over and stake the new seedling on the other side of the stem from the root ball. Water it in thoroughly and you are good to go. Tomato Plant Stakes
Oh and one last thing if your location is notorious for Cutworms then take some precautions and wrap some tinfoil around the stem of the seedling. Protecting them using toilet roll holders, old (clean) tins or plastic cups also works.
Want to learn more about planting tomato plants [http://princegardening.com]? Visit [http://princegardening.com] for helpful tips and information on planting and caring for a thriving tomato garden.
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If you or someone you know owns an electric miter saw, it is very easy to make stakes that are very easy to drive into the ground by creating a nice sharp point on the end of the stake.
Before I go further, let me stress that it is very important to observe all safety procedures outlined by the manufacturer of the saw. Be sure to respect the tool for what it can do and do not take a cavalier attitude towards using any kind of electric saw.
I like to use 2x2s purchased from the local home store for my stakes. These are typically 8 feet long and are often referred to as “furring strips”. Be sure and purchase the 2x2s that are not treated. The chemicals in treated wood are toxic and since you are using these stakes for gardening, you do not want any of the chemicals from treated wood leaching into the soil around the roots of your plants.
Purchase as many of the 2×2 furring strips as you need according to how many tomato plants you need to support. What I do is leave my miter saw set at a 90 degree angle and hold the end of the furring strip into the saw off to the side about 20 degrees. This creates an angled cut on the end of the furring strip. Be sure to position your 2×2 so that the cut will bisect the middle of the end of the stake.
After you’ve made the first cut, flip the stake over 180 degrees, place it in the same 20 degree angled off to the side position and make a cut on the opposite side that cuts at the same place right down the middle of the end of the stake essentially creating a “V” shape on the end of the stake. Now rotate the stake 90 degrees, make the same cut, and rotate the stake 180 degrees and make the same cut again.
At this point you should have a nice point on the end of your stake. You can shorten the length of your stake if you happen to be using it for a determinate variety tomato plant, but if you are planting tomatoes in the ground, it is probably best to just retain the entire length of the furring strip. This is because when planting tomatoes in the ground you will most likely be digging a deep hole and then driving the stake down into the ground from that point. Ideally you will have about 6 feet of the stake sticking up out of the ground.
At the end of the season, pull out the stakes, clean them off with the hose and store them away for the next year. If you are feeling particularly motivated, you can quickly slap on some green or brown outdoor wood stain that will help them to blend into your landscape better when you use them again.
David Mitchell is a gardening hobbyist and an avid grower of tomato plants. He likes to start tomato plants from seed in order to have access to more unique varieties of the plant. He looks forward to trying new varieties each year.
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Garden fencing is not all about the fence panels and fence posts. A personal touch makes it more attractive. At the same time you should stick closely to the exterior of your home so that the garden fencing matches the aesthetic of the rest of your house.
When carefully considered and planned, the chosen fence type, fence panels, fence posts, and other accessories add to the external beauty of the house, and may help to add value to the property too.
Why garden fencing is installed?
People install garden fencing for a variety of reasons. The most common purpose of the standard garden fence is to clearly mark the boundaries of the property, but can also be used cleverly to break up the outdoor space into smaller parts, perhaps depending on what the different areas of the garden will be used for, potentially making it easier to maintain.
Many people prefer to plant trees of different types separately. You can install fencing to keep your Agapanthus well separated from Amaryllis and Lilly. Distinct areas for different flowers and trees look great.
If you plan to place a garden table with chairs, a swing, aquarium and/or fountain in the lawn, why not discuss this with the fencing product supplier and ask for their suggestions. Garden fencing can be designed specifically for the needs of the users. Custom fence panels and fence posts can be used together to form an attractive fencing surround for your garden or lawn.
You can choose the fencing material that goes best with your garden furniture, patio awning, deck furniture and the exterior of your home. Most people prefer using wood as the garden fencing material.
Wood garden fencing:
Wooden fence panels, fence posts and garden gates assign a natural look to your garden.
Post and rails, wire netting, chainlink, hurdles, timber palisade, chestnut paling, closeboard, closeboard panels, and lap panels are other common types of garden fencing that are available.
Bamboo is also often used for garden fencing and screening as well as landscaping. Bamboo fence panels and posts look attractive and are available in a wide range of designs, colors, styles and textures.
Wire netting, post and rails, chainlink and different types of mesh are commonly used for border edging. Wire garden fences or mesh are helpful to outline curvy and rounded borders of your garden and they are also quite attractive too when done properly.
Net, wire or mesh can also be used to protect a newly planted tree from animal or bird attacks. Planters or recently planted trees are often surrounded with wires or nets in the middle of the garden for this purpose.
Once you get in touch with a garden fencing supplier, you can learn more about your options. Fencing product manufacturers and suppliers can suggest to you the best fence posts and panels.
Tory Lane is a gardener and has authored many articles on gardening. For more help on garden fencing [http://www.avsfencing.co.uk/product_cat.asp?ID=1&SUBID=4&USERID=], fence panels and fence posts, he recommends you to visit:
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Add color to your garden, patio or indoor space with simple flower pot crafts. Flower pots are functional blank canvases, encouraging a wide range of creativity. You can paint, decoupage, stamp and embellish as part of your flowers pot crafts. Come up with your own flower pot craft projects with these ideas.
How to Decorate Clay Pots by Heidi Borchers & Tiffany Windsor
After purchasing a flower pot, sand the pot down before painting. You should also seal the inside of the flower pot with an oil-based polyurethane to protect your painted design from water penetration. If you are painting pots for outdoor placement, use a paint specifically designed for outdoor use. DecoArt Patio Paint is water and weather-resistant and adapts well to changing temperatures. Outdoor paints also mean your pot will be easy to clean.
Try painting sections of the pot in different colors. Use painter’s tape to mark off the top lip of the pot and paint a coordinating color. Or, create several bands around the flower pot with the painter’s tape and create stripes on your flower pot.
Bright colors work well in gardens. To select a color scheme, look at design or craft resources on colors like Paper Crafter’s Color Companion by C&T Publishing. Paint two to three coats of each color on your pot. If you want to add a design to your pot, paint the background a nice, muted color such as light yellow.
Use stencils to paint words or shapes onto your flower pot. You can also use this technique to label the contents of the flower pots decoratively, such as “Basil” or “Chives.” Use a sponge to paint your flower pots. Paint all over in one or two colors, or create bursts of colors with a round sponge that look very much like flowers. You can also cut a normal kitchen sponge into a shape such a heart or star.
Cut out words and images from scrapbook papers, magazines and even junk mail to decoupage your pot. Create a theme by selecting similar words or images, for example Spring. Tissue paper is a great material to decoupage pots. You can use one color or a variety of coordinating colors for a fun, semi-transparent look. Crinkle the tissue paper in your hands and tear into pieces. Use a foam brush to apply decoupage glue (such as Mod Podge) to your pot. Smooth tissue paper pieces over pot in a random pattern. Cover with another coat of decoupage glue.
For fun, add a coat or accents of glitter or sparkle, such as with Tulip 3D Sparkle Paint. For outdoor placement, you will need to cover your decoupage work with a coat of UV-resistant acrylic coating, like those made by Krylon.
Yarn – Wrap yarn or twine tightly around the lip of your pot, gluing as you go. Yarn-wrapping creates an interesting textured look.
Buttons – Flat buttons are a fun way to decorate pots. Paint flowers on your pot and glue buttons as the centers the flowers. Add a line of buttons around the top of the pot. Randomly glue buttons all over the pot.
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Flower pots have various uses, from starting new seeds, moving plants to new locations, indoor cultivation plants, beautifies garden, or charming your room with wonderful flowers. Flower pots have been used since ancient times, the Egyptians were among the first to use pots to move plants from one location to another, later the Romans brought potted plants inside during cold weather. In modern eras, they can be used as a personal gift, kitchen decoration, room beautification, and art object.
Plant pots can be easily found in garden supply stories, grocery stores, home improvement stores and online garden stores. There are different kinds of plant containers, from clay flower pots, plastic, ceramic, fiber glass, hanging pots, window box planters, sandstone urns, and many more; each of them has their own pros and cons. Out of all these, clay flower pot considered as one of the most popular type of pot. Its structure is suitable for maintaining the freshness almost all type of flowers, in addition clay pots are made from organic raw materials, thus these are eco-friendly products.
Before choosing which type of pot you want, you need to determine where do you want to place the pots. Would you like to lay the pot in your garden? Or do you prefer to place the inside your house? Whether in the living room, kitchen or as window decoration in private room, you must plan and decide the placement of your pots. With perfect placement and match with surroundings, it will enhance the splendor of home as well as your garden. Type of plants, sizes of flower, weight, qualities and prices also major considerations before picking the right pot for you. Growing your own flowers certainly bring ultimate pleasure, an interesting activity that enlighten your days.
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Planting a small vegetable garden is almost as much fun as harvesting. Can’t you just taste the plump juicy tomatoes and the sweet tasting cantaloupe? Before you grow the area’s largest pumpkin or zesty collards, and are short on space and time, take a look at some creative small vegetable garden plans.
Square Foot Gardening–A Space Saving Plan
Intensive planting designs use every bit of garden space available. Square foot gardens (4 ft. by 4 ft.)are surprisingly productive. How many plants planted in each square foot is decided by the amount of room necessary for the specific crop planted to successfully produce a harvest.
For illustration, each single square in a square foot garden plan can contain 1-staked tomato, 4 bean plants, 1 pepper plant, or 50 radishes. Positioning of plants or seeds inside the square also depends on the crop selection. Where a single plant occupies a square, set the seed or transplant in the middle to allow room to grow in all directions.
Several plants may be planted in rows, smaller squares, or at random in small vegetable garden plans. For instance, fill a square with four bean plants, divide the area into smaller squares and plant one seed in the middle of each. A square can hold fifty radishes or twenty onions. The seeds can be scattered across the square or sown in small rows.
Harvest early by thinning out young plants for use as tender greens or roots, creating room for the rest to grow. Trellises add a third dimension to small vegetable garden plans. A trellis is useful to gardeners seeking to maximize space. Rather than allowing vine crops to sprawl across the garden, send plants such as cantaloupe, watermelon, and cucumbers growing skyward.
Cages also can be used to take advantage of vertical space and keep crops from sprawling over the ground. Many plants can be successfully grown in cages, including tomatoes, watermelons, and eggplants. In addition to space-saving planting techniques, gardeners have an additional resource: dwarf varieties and bush forms of plants that originally grew only as vines.
Be advised, while the dwarf varieties take up less garden room, the harvests are somewhat smaller than their full size relatives. Geometric planting patterns make maximum use of space in small vegetable garden plans. Gardeners use simple designs to fill wide beds with vegetables. As they say, necessity is the mother of invention.
Vegetable spacing for small plots
Beans are a sure producer and should be spaced four plants per square foot in small vegetable garden plans. Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, peppers, and eggplant may need staking and space 1 plant each square ft. Cabbage and cauliflower produces a single head planted at one to a foot. Trellis or stake tomatoes at one plant per sq. ft. Make successive plantings of endive, kohlrabi, and lettuce, at four plants per square foot. Harvest individual leaves of kale and parsley spacing four plants per sq. feet.
A single stake will support floppy, low growing plants that might otherwise be injured by winds or abundant productions. A wire cage gives the best support for tall growing plants.
Don’t think just because you have small vegetable garden plans that means not much of a harvest. Vegetable gardening even on a smaller scale can produce bumper crops. In fact, with vertical gardening, the sky is the limit!